No food says Spain quite like jamón — a whole cured ham on its wooden stand, sliced into translucent, ruby-and-white ribbons that melt on the tongue. Andalusia makes some of the very finest, from acorn-fed black pigs in the western oak pastures to hams cured in the thin, cold air of the mountains an hour from Cortijo Bujio. Understanding it turns a slice of ham into one of the great pleasures of a stay here.

There are two broad worlds of Spanish ham. Jamón serrano ("mountain ham") is made from white pigs, cured in the cold dry air of the sierras — very good, and the everyday ham. But the aristocrat is jamón ibérico, made from the native black Iberian pig (pata negra, "black hoof"), a breed found almost nowhere else. Its meat is marbled with fat that turns silky at room temperature, giving a depth and a long, nutty finish that white-pig hams cannot match.
The finest ibérico of all is jamón ibérico de bellota. In autumn, during the montanera, the black pigs are turned loose in the dehesa — the vast oak pastures of western Andalusia and Extremadura — to gorge on fallen acorns (bellotas). The acorns' fats work into the meat, and after two, three or even four years of slow curing, the result is a ham of extraordinary richness and aroma. It is one of the world's great cured meats, and priced accordingly.
Closer to the villa, the Alpujarra mountains produce a celebrated ham of their own. Trevélez, one of the highest villages in Spain, has cured ham for centuries in its cold, dry, high-altitude air — no smoke, no additives, just salt, time and mountain wind. Jamón de Trevélez carries a protected Geographical Indication and is famous across the country. (See our guide to the Sierra Nevada & Alpujarras.)
What is the difference between ibérico and serrano ham? Serrano is made from white pigs and cured in mountain air — the everyday ham. Ibérico is made from the native black Iberian pig, richer and more marbled; the finest, ibérico de bellota, comes from pigs fattened on acorns in the oak pastures.
What is pata negra? "Black hoof" — a nickname for jamón ibérico, from the dark hooves of the black Iberian pig.
What ham is made near Cortijo Bujio? The famous mountain ham of Trevélez, in the Alpujarras, cured in cold high-altitude air and carrying a protected Geographical Indication.
How should I serve jamón? In thin slices, at room temperature, on its own or with bread and a glass of wine — never fridge-cold and thick.
Cortijo Bujio is a short drive from the mountain hams of the Alpujarras. Read on about the Sierra Nevada & Alpujarras, Montefrío cheese and food & drink around Granada.
Sources: Denominación de Origen and IGP Jamón de Trevélez; Fundación Jamón Ibérico / ICEX Foods & Wines from Spain; Andalucía.org on Iberian ham and the dehesa.