Travel Guide
Loja
The Moors had a name for Loja that said everything: they called it the door and key to the kingdom of Granada. Set where the river Genil breaks through the mountains, this handsome, watery town guarded the western gateway to the capital — and whoever held Loja held the road to Granada itself. Today it rewards a visit with a Moorish citadel, thundering waterfalls in a hidden gorge, and the palace of one of 19th-century Spain's most formidable men, all about forty minutes from Cortijo Bujio.
In Arabic Loja was Medina Lauxa, "the City Guardian," and its position made it one of the most fought-over places on the whole Nasrid frontier. Its importance was proven in 1482, when King Ferdinand launched a major assault to take it — and was thrown back, thanks to the fierce defence of Aliatar, lord of nearby Zagra and father of Moraima, the wife of the sultan Boabdil. Loja held. But not for long: in May 1486, Ferdinand returned and took it for good. More than 5,000 Muslims left the town for Granada, and everyone understood what it meant — with the key turned, the fall of the whole kingdom was only a matter of time. (See our guide to Boabdil, the last sultan.)
Loja is known as la ciudad del agua, "the city of water," for its many springs and fountains. Crowning the old town is its Alcazaba — the Moorish citadel, declared a national monument in 1931, with its great cistern and an archaeological viewpoint looking out over the rooftops and, on a clear day, to a waterfall in the hills beyond.
That waterfall belongs to Loja's natural wonder: Los Infiernos de Loja — "the Hells of Loja" — a series of powerful cascades where the river Genil crashes through a deep gorge, including the beautiful Cola de Caballo ("Horse's Tail"). Now protected as a Natural Monument, it is a dramatic, green, roaring landscape utterly unlike the dry hills around it, and a lovely place to walk.
Loja's most famous son gave the town a nickname of its own. Ramón María Narváez, born here in 1799, was one of the most powerful figures of 19th-century Spain — a general and repeated Prime Minister, so forceful he was known as el Espadón de Loja, "the Great Sword of Loja." His grand 19th-century residence, the Palacio de Narváez, with its sweeping staircase and former dungeons, still stands and now houses the town hall.
A final, unexpected pleasure: just outside Loja lies the village of Riofrío, home to Europe's oldest sturgeon farm and the world's first organic caviar — one of Andalusia's great gastronomic surprises. (See our guide to fine dining near Montefrío.)
Loja is roughly 35–40 minutes from Cortijo Bujio. Combine the Alcazaba and old town with a walk at Los Infiernos, and perhaps a caviar tasting at Riofrío, for a rich and varied day — history, water and one of the region's most surprising luxuries.
Why was Loja called the "key to Granada"? Because it guarded the western gateway and the river route to the Nasrid capital. In Arabic it was Medina Lauxa; whoever held Loja held the road to Granada.
What is Los Infiernos de Loja? A protected Natural Monument just outside the town — a deep gorge with powerful waterfalls on the river Genil, including the Cola de Caballo, in a strikingly green landscape.
Who was Narváez? Ramón María Narváez, "the Great Sword of Loja," a 19th-century general and repeated Prime Minister of Spain, born in Loja. His palace is now the town hall.
How far is Loja from Cortijo Bujio? About 35–40 minutes — easily combined with the Riofrío caviar farm nearby.
Cortijo Bujio is about 40 minutes from Loja. Read on about Boabdil, Íllora, Moclín and fine dining near Montefrío.
Sources: Turismo de Granada, Loja; Andalucía Rústica and Seda Club Hotel on Loja's monuments and Los Infiernos; Wikipedia, "Ramón María Narváez" and "Loja, Granada".