Order a drink almost anywhere in Spain and it comes on its own. Order one in Granada and something else arrives beside it, unbidden and free: a plate of food. Granada is one of the last cities in Spain to keep the free-tapa tradition fully alive, and it has turned an evening's drinking into one of the great, and cheapest, pleasures of Andalusian life. Forty-five minutes from Cortijo Bujio, it is reason enough on its own to spend a night in the city.

What a tapa is — and why it's free here

A tapa is a small plate of food. The word means "lid," and the tradition is said to go back to the old habit of laying a slice of bread or ham over a glass of wine to keep out the flies and the dust. Most of Spain long ago turned tapas into something you pay for; Granada, proudly nicknamed la ciudad de las tapas, simply never let the free version die. Here, every drink you order comes with a free tapa — and, in the best bars, the plates get better and more generous the more rounds you stay for.

How it works

The ritual is simple and joyful:

• Order a drink. A caña (small draught beer), a glass of wine, or the summer favourite tinto de verano (red wine with soda).
• A plate arrives — olives and cheese, a wedge of tortilla, a little stew, fried fish, jamón, patatas, sometimes something quite elaborate.
• Order another, and a different tapa appears. Some bars even let you choose from a list; at others it's the luck of the kitchen.

The local way is not to sit down to one big meal but to ir de tapas — bar-hop from place to place, a drink and a tapa in each, moving on when you've eaten it. It is cheaper, livelier and far more sociable than a formal dinner, and by the third or fourth bar you'll have eaten a full meal for the price of a few drinks.

Where to go

Granada's best tapas zones each have their own character:

• Calle Navas — a whole street of bars near the Plaza del Carmen, the classic tapas run.
• Calle Elvira and the Albaicín — atmospheric, Moorish-flavoured, good for a crawl toward the sunset viewpoint.
• Calle Pedro Antonio de Alarcón — younger, buzzier, popular with students.
• The Realejo — the old Jewish quarter, with excellent, slightly more grown-up bars.

A few tips

• Pace yourself and keep moving — the joy is in the variety.
• Carry some cash — many small bars prefer it.
• Don't over-order food — the tapas will feed you; that's the point.
• Go a little late — Granadans eat and drink from around 8 or 9 pm onward.

From the villa

Granada is about 45 minutes from Cortijo Bujio, so a tapas night makes a perfect evening out — ideally after a day at the Alhambra or a flamenco show in the Sacromonte. Because you're staying in the countryside, you can enjoy the city at its liveliest and return to peace and stars. (See our guides to Granada & the Alhambra and flamenco & the Sacromonte.)

Frequently asked questions

Are tapas really free in Granada? Yes. Granada is one of the last cities in Spain where a free tapa comes with every drink you order — a tradition it has kept alive long after most of the country dropped it.

How does it work? Order a drink and a plate of food arrives with it, free. Order another and you usually get a different tapa. The custom is to bar-hop, eating a full meal across several bars.

Where are the best tapas in Granada? Calle Navas, Calle Elvira and the Albaicín, Calle Pedro Antonio de Alarcón, and the Realejo are the classic areas — each with its own feel.

How far is Granada from Cortijo Bujio? About 45 minutes — an easy and delicious evening out.

Cortijo Bujio is 45 minutes from the tapas bars of Granada. Read on about fine dining near Montefrío, food & drink around Granada and flamenco & the Sacromonte.

Sources: Turismo de Granada; LoveGranada, "Free tapas in Granada"; Andalucía.com on Granada tapas culture.

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